Calves Fattening Up
Vermont, that rural enclave made famous as the home to such sweet and endearing companies as Ben and Jerry’s and the Vermont Teddy Bear Factory, was everything I imagined and much more. From the Farmer’s Markets set up in idyllic Normal Rockwell-esque small towns, to the “it’s only natural” locavore, slow food movement as way of life, the only real surprise about Vermont was how wonderful the food could be in those small town eateries and shops. Fresh, with a focus on good health as much as great taste, forms the backbone for excellent food preparations in Vermont as in Maui.
Farmer's Market with Honor System
We stayed at Basin Harbor Resort, a classic, relaxed, traditional retreat on Lake Champlain across the water from New York State, which has hosted stalwart family gatherings for six generations of bowed and buttoned Biff’s and Muffy’s. Never stuffy, always classy, the gorgeous lakeside dining room, which requires all men over the age of 12 wear a coat and tie after five, serves a rotating menu of dishes by inspired Chef David Merrill that rivaled the best of Maui’s best menues.
The dining special one memorable night was phyllo wrapped halibut, a giant filet baked to perfection, swaddled in a golden envelope enhanced by delicate cream sauce. My son must have sensed fall in the air as he ordered the other special – turkey dinner with all the trimmings, while my partner enjoyed the Pan Seared Veal and Scallops with Wild Mushrooms, Mustard and Tarragon, Herbed Polenta and Broccolini. The continental cuisine proved to be far afield from typical Maui menus, and a welcome change. Which is the point of travel, of course.
Table for Farmers Dinner
As in Maui, chefs and farmers in Vermont partner up to produce the best locally sourced menus and food stuffs possible. Every month at Basin Harbor a local farm source presents a Farmer’s Dinner lakeside and we happened upon the last such event of the season. The host farm for our dinner produces free range organic poultry – and the menu even included goat meatballs! Not exactly my favorite game, but it was fun to try something out of the ordinary. The meal was fresh, fresh, fresh with myriad salads and garden based buffet items but the piece de resistance was a lovely honey lavender cake, pretty enough for a bridal bouquet. I’m sure the chef would share the recipe with Maui’s Lavender Farm if they asked! (As for sharing the goat meatball recipe with Surfing Goat … I’ve asked them to produce a version of Goat’s Milk Lotion that I bought at Dakin Farms instead!) But the idea of a Monthly Farmers Dinner on the ocean is certainly something I’d love to see someone do on Maui.
Lavender Honey Cake - Pretty as It Tastes
One of the best taste surprises of the journey was discovered at the alternate casual restaurant at Basin Harbor. One night we ordered the Grilled Calamari at the Red Mill, the resort’s more casual but no less excellent restaurant, and was treated to rings of lightly battered and fried octopus sharing the plate with spicy hot rings of banana peppers doused with a sweet, peppery sauce. Can you say Onolicious in Vermont? Or perhaps, Moooo-oooo will do.
The biggest treat on Vermont’s table was totally unexpected, though once I thought about it, shouldn’t have been. Engaged in conversation pre-meal, hunger dictated I break bread to soothe the pangs while anticipating dinner. Stopping mid-sentence I was taken back suddenly to a meal in France fifteen years ago – the result of a burst of flavor melting on my tongue. Simple things like the wholesome, pure and long-forgotten taste of truly fresh creamery butter, churned down the road at the local dairy farm that morning, can truly make the meal. Or if you’re a foodie like me, it made my day!
Farmer's Dinner Under the Tent Lakeside
Middlebury, Vermont
A stroll thru nearby Middlebury revealed excellence in bakeries, chocolatiers, and even fresh ahi! While browsing through a Main Street shop one afternoon, a man ran in to announce the local fish truck guy had hauled in sushi grade ahi, fresh and glorious, right across the street. My proposed purchase had to wait while the proprietor abandoned his post to rush to the truck for an impromptu. Some things may be different in Vermont, but they love their ahi as much as Mauians and I seriously doubt it was snagged on Lake Champlain. Sturgeon maybe…
One day we toured Dakin Farms, famous for sausages, hams, Vermont Cheddar, maple syrup, jams, cheddar popcorn toppings and the richest ice cream on earth. There is a reason these items are associated with the region and justly revered. In the same way that mozzarella cheese, hand made in the foothills of Naples can’t be duplicated exactly elsewhere (nor can a baguette baked in France) so it is you must go to Vermont if you really want to experience these flavors. Either that, or ship a carton of goodies back to your home State, as I did.
This May Last the Winter
Perhaps the best things about travel are melding what you have at home with what you import from afar, which can result in bettering the best of both worlds. I fully intend to try out the theory when I stuff lilikoi cream cheese into Hawaiian sweet bread and slather my island-style French toast with authentic Vermont maple syrup.
Such is the joy of travel and discovering local food gems wherever you go
