Chef's Special at Maui Grill

Six weeks ago WCM reviewed the newly-opened Maui Grill in Napili Shores. Kale, the What’s Cooking Maui tiki god, awarded the restaurant 4 out of 5 torches based on quality of food, service, pricing, and overall good vibe. Recently, struck with a sudden craving for the mango/avocado/ahi tower, we revisited the eatery for a follow up examination.

Since their liquor license won’t be granted until July, we brought wine from our cellar and were treated to corkage, an elegant wine cooler, and chilled glasses; service with a smile and no extra fees. This time around we dined at the snug sushi bar and spent a delightful evening visiting with the owner, Fred Sabzalipour and sushi chef, Hiro “Duke” Hoshimoto. Although the main dining room was bustling throughout the evening, we had exclusive reign of the sushi bar.

Chef Duke launched our feast with an impressive hamachi carpaccio, festooned with crispy salmon skin and black caviar, multi-tasking while regaling us with tales of his travels and numerous stints exploring the art of food preparation in France, Italy and Beverly Hills before settling in Maui, ostensibly to enjoy his passion – scuba diving. Duke is a master diver/instructor, further revealing his love of all things ocean. But, for now he’s busy getting the sushi bar rockin’, working seven days a week, 12 hours a day, so scuba must wait.

We ordered a Rainbow Roll next, served with an unexpected garnish of bright green caviar. “That’s gorgeous! Green caviar!” I exclaimed. We learned the caviar is tinted with wasabi, just as the black caviar is tinted with squid ink, imparting a subtle flavor along with conspicuous eye appeal. “Everything beautiful must also be natural,” Hoshimoto said, sharing his kitchen philosophy. “It’s easy to make things taste and look delicious using artificial means. My approach to food preparation is that it must be healthy first. Nothing else matters if it’s not healthy.”

To further illustrate the point, the owner emerged on cue carrying the day’s catch in a stainless steel bowl. “See the eye on that!?” Duke asked excitedly, “Clear, bright, full… and the gills are pink and fresh. This is what I must have for my sushi. A fisherman friend caught it for me.”

Diving next into our ahi towers, we were clearly impressed and all the more reassured. When it comes to sushi the one thing diners need to know is whether or not the fish is first-rate and freshest possible. The guys at Maui Grill have it right on all counts. We pushed back from our plates momentarily, the tower having vanished somehow.

“This time you’ll have the Scallop Dynamite for dessert!” the chef insisted. “Last time you were too full when I tried to kidnap you on your way out.” He giggled. “In fact, I’m going to call this dish ‘Kidnap Scallops’ from now on.” How could we argue? The scallops proved the perfect end to our wonderful sushi bar meal, with slices of giant scallop and shitake and oyster mushrooms, all swimming in a rich, bubbling hot sauce accented with two giant prawns.

“Okay, Chef, you did it again! We’re throwing in the napkin!”
“Next time I’ll make another of my exclusive dishes for you!” he said, laughing.
“We’re looking forward to that. How about lunch tomorrow…”

Maui Grill at the Napili Shores resort is open 7 days a week, breakfast, lunch and dinner, including sushi. Prices are surprisingly reasonable; service is attentive; quality is great. BYOB until July.

Fresh Fish at Maui Grill