Last night’s wine dinner at Pineapple Grill, sponsored by Better Brands and Maui No Ka Oi, was a stellar, sold-out event. As the first of several wine dinners to be offered in support of Maui Community College Culinary Arts program, Chef Ryan Luckey and the staff of Pineapple Grill proved once again why they repeatedly garner awards for excellence in their field.
The evening started with guests gathering on the restaurant lanai overlooking the 18th hole of the Bay Course. Blustery weather aside, guests reveled in the wines from Southern France. Along with tasting selections including Vouvray, Voigner and Pinot Blanc, oenophiles were treated to decadent bites of fresh shucked kushi oysters, tarts of Kauai blue shrimp, and Alaskaking crab bites with grilled Mauigold pineapple in a Chinese spoon.
Restaurant manager Chris Kiawi and Chef Ryan Luckey welcomed guests, tantalized our taste buds for what was to come during main event, and offered praise to Maui No Ka Oi editor, Diane Haynes Woodburn, who orchestrated the series of dinners to celebrate the magazine’s revered `Aipono Award winners and to support MCC Culinary Academy programs. Chef Chris Speere, program director of MCC Culinary Academy shared with us that one of his skilled students had been selected to assist the chef in preparation of tonight’s dinner, revealing how the winemaker dinners have a positive impact even beyond fund-raising and gourmet dining.
An evening teeming with accolades began with the first course. The pan seared foie gras on housemade brioche, served with a Sauternes from Bordeaux may well be the best I’ve ever tasted. Next up, a perfectly sautéed Monchong with quenelle of Surfing Goat Dairy chevre, crafted uniquely for this dish and served with “teenage” (rather than baby) greens grown upcountry, harvested intentionally later so the greens were a wee bit larger and more flavorful than usual. As Chef Luckey described in detail the making of each dish, it became obvious the thought and preparation that went into it required weeks, perhaps months, of advance thought. The proof was in the pudding — it was fabulous.
By the time the main course was presented – braised veal cheeks with heirloom baby vegetables also grown upcountry, highlighted with black truffle shavings –we were nearly beside ourselves with pleasure. At this point, most guests accepted a second tasting of the Cote Du Rhone which mirrored the heartiness of the Grand Veneur reduction. With it, we toasted one another to our good fortune of being there and having the chance to make new friends at communal tables.
The piece de resistance was the Chipotle Chocolate Cake graced with coffee crème anglaise, berries and the most delicious macadamia nut praline known to man. Although a few of my table mates didn’t relish the unexpected flavor of chili in their chocolate, I found it to be an irresistible incarnation of the classic flourless mousse cake. In fact, in spite of the decadent meal I’d just enjoyed, I had to resist asking for seconds!
For information on future `Aipono Awards Winemaker Dinners, visit Maui No Ka Oi Magazine online to register for the mailing list. If future events are anything like last night’s, you’re in for a royal treat.
